“I have a great respect for the past but I move forward,” says Michelin-starred chef Sebastien Sanjou. “The past must be respected, not ignored, but I only speak about the future.”
And the future is Marius, a new Provençal restaurant that from June 14 will take over Conscientiae (formerly Stars’n’Bars) at 6 Quai Antoine 1er. “If you asked me six months ago if I’d like to go to Monaco, I would have said, yes, it’s a dream. Monaco is an incredible place, at the crossroads of the world. All restaurant concepts are possible, there is a level of cuisine, of service, infrastructure and hotels that is unbelievable.”
WATCH VIDEO ABOVE: Chef Sebastien Sanjou explains the Marius Monaco concept.
For the moment, Monaco is not yet a dream come true for 41-year-old Sebastien. “Monaco is a village, with its own population, it’s particular. You need a lot of humility. It’s a lot of stress and worry. Paris is easier than Monaco!”
Conscientiae opened its doors nearly a year ago, in July 2023, and Sebastien insists that the Marius transformation is the result of opportunities, meetings and things happening. He’s referring to Conscientiae/Stars’n’Bars founder Didier Rubiolo and managing director Marc Dussoullier (owner of the iconic Plongeoir in Nice and he runs La Tonnelle on Île Sainte-Marguerite, a restaurant owned by the monks), who he met working on high-profile events in the region.
“I am happy,” says Didier. “Sebastien will do well and I will stay on representing the environmental side. This gives me more time to do what I want and to develop my vision.”
Sebastien, who is a fifth-generation restauranteur, says at first glance the clientele in Monaco is very specific. “There are two types, the locals and residents, and the others who are interested in the jet-set. What we want is to have a beautiful setting, somewhere sincere. It’s a mix of know-how, the precision that comes with the experience of having a Michelin star combined with a sense of simplicity, taste and generosity.”
“The opportunity to have a Michelin-starred chef like Sebastien was a no brainer. The timing was extraordinary,” says community relations manager Annette Anderson. “There is an evolution, from the last 10 years of Stars’n’Bars, then the period of Conscientiae and now with Marius – what can we do to really improve our community, our planet, our health. There were a number of steps and Kate would be very happy, because this evolution was very important for her.”
It’s clear that Sebastien, one of France’s most renowned chef, shares the values upon which Conscientiae was built. “Notions of sustainability are obvious. Today we make a fuss about this but it’s part our DNA. It’s the heart of our activity. Chefs use ingredients that are around them, it goes without saying.”
The restaurant’s interior design will stay the same with some tweaks. The floor plan, for example, will change and tableware will reflect Sebastien’s eye for detail. The first floor will now offer additional seating, and no longer focus on wellness; the second-floor “deck” is for private events.
Marius has team of 16 who will work in rotation. “There is a loyalty of employees here that is rare. Some have been here for ten to 12 years. And they are happy with the challenge.” With the large outdoor terrace, there is total interior/exterior capacity of 120.
Outside of lunch and dinner service, beverages and a mini menu will be available from 11 am. The fixed weekday lunch menu starts at €31. In the evening, it will be à la carte with 6 or 7 starters, 6 or 7 main dishes and desserts which change with the seasons. Expect to pay an average of €80 a person without drinks.
“Our difference is that we do not plate up like in other restaurants. We have a selection of beautiful serving platters and bowls, ceramic, porcelain, silver, copper, which we bring to the table and the dishes can be shared – or not – but it lends itself to a sense of conviviality.”
Marius, from the Latin mare, meaning sea, is an ode to the Mediterranean and its Provençal traditions. “It is really the idea of an auberge. There will be the main dish in one serving platter and then in others the vegetables, the garnishes, mesclun and herbs. For dessert, if you want mousse au chocolat, I will bring you a silver dish of mousse au chocolat. Refined gourmet, but simple with quality produce. Sincere.”
Sebastien admits he grew up “far from Monaco,” in the Hautes Pyrénées in southwest France. He studied at the Lycée hôtelier de Biarritz then in 2002 moved to the Var at age 19 to take over Relais des Moines in Les Arcs-sur-Argens. He was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. (He also served in Chef Willer’s kitchen in Palme d’Or in Cannes and in 2006 was named Young Talent of the Year.)
“Like any good chef, I spent many years in the kitchen, knowing that sooner or later I would need something else.” In 2019, together with his strong team, Sebastien had an opportunity to work at The Residence at Maison Villeroy in Paris, a private restaurant.
The following year he opened Trente-Trois at Maison Villeroy and was awarded a Michelin star six weeks later. “It was the result of more than ten years work in conjunction with building confidence with Michelin. I called the editor of the Michelin Guide France, Gilbert Garin, who retired last year, to say that I was going to open in Paris. But as it was only for the hotel residents and club members, there was nothing at stake. Then once the restaurant was open to the public, I called him again. The chef, Romain Lamothe, had worked with me for ten years at the Relais des Moines and had been awarded a star there. So, it was not really just six weeks.”
The culinary genius adds, “Now, no one has contact with Michelin. No one knows the real director. All communication is cut.”
Sebastien also ran the Voile d’Or on St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat for three summers while it was being renovated and he opened an auberge in the Var, le Chateau Mentone. Earlier this year he took over a restaurant in Biarritz (formerly L’Atelier d’Alexandre Bousquet) which he opened in January with his ex-wife.
“I opened a Marius in Biarritz in January which is very successful. Biarritz is a mini-St-Tropez. People there are very well off, but they don’t want to show it. It’s like Monaco in that it is quite closed with a local, wealthy clientele who don’t like to be taken for a fool.”
Marius Monaco will have a Provençal menu featuring light, tasty, simple dishes – purple artichokes à la Barigoule, octopus stew, fresh langoustines, Piedmont beef fillet, sauce with sun-dried tomatoes, frozen lemon desserts with basil. “Provencal cuisine is defined by herbs,” explains Sebastien. “Thyme, bay, rosemary. Then it depends on the season – artichokes, tomatoes and all that the earth offers. I’ve invented nothing. Aioli is aioli. It’s just that I have mastered the technique to perfection. It’s light and tasty, without being overpowered by garlic.”
He points out that Provençal cuisine “naturally includes vegetarian dishes” and while it is important to adapt, “I’m not going in the vegan and vegetarian direction.”
Marius has an extensive wine list of 400 references, a selection exceeding that of the wine cellars found in many Michelin-star restaurants. Prices range from €40 to €3,000. “We have changed the way we think about selling wines. The more knowledgeable the clients are about wine, the more knowledgeable they are about the price. A client who wants to drink a Grand Cru de Bordeaux knows how much it costs and is fed up paying three times the price. So we have a very select wine list, for example, we have a magnificent selection of champagne – not Dom Perignon, that’s not for the wine lover – that comes from small vignerons, like Henri Giraud, that you don’t find everywhere. Or wine from the Domaine Valette, my neighbour in the Var.
“When I think about meals with my family when I was younger, the word happiness comes to mind,” recalls Sebastien. “Success for me is to have a full restaurant and happy clients who come back. Creating a fashionable restaurant is one thing, but making it last, a place where clients want to return again and again, is another.”
From June 14: Marius at 6 Quai Antoine 1er is open daily. Reservations recommended: +377 97 97 95 96 or contact@mariusmonaco.com. Valet parking from 6:30 pm. For more see their website.
Article first published June 3, 2024. Feature photo and videos copyright Good News Monaco.