This iconic salon de thé at 27 Boulevard des Moulins has been un point de reference. in Monaco since 1955.
Owners Alexander Seleznev (aka Chef Alex) and Nicolai Zhur took over in 2015 having opened Pâtisserie Seleznyoff in their native Moscow in 2004.
Chef Alex studied at the Moscow Culinary Institute and has written several books on Russian cuisine. A famous face is his homeland, he also had his own TV show and made appearances as a celebrity chef on other programs including at La Maison du Chocolat.
Caterina Reviglio Sonnino, Nicolai Zhur and Alexander Seleznev
At Patisserie Riviera everything is made from scratch and on the premises. Nicolai says that their hottest seller (after the viennoiseries, bien sûr) is their line of gluten-free products—cakes, chocolates (also lactose- and sugar-free) and their Jordan almonds (les dragées).
Along with Caterina Reviglio Sonnino who works at the café and is helping to develop their brand, English, French, Italian and Russian are spoken. During Covid, lunch service has stopped but pop by for a super creamy café crème (€3.50) and croissant (€1.50) in the ornately green tea room or outside terrace. The caviar fridge is still running just fine, too, if you need a snack to go.
Open daily from 8 am to 1 pm. & 3 pm to 7 pm (except Sunday afternoons).
Patisserie Riviera 27 Boulevard des Moulins, Monaco
Article first published November 1, 2020.
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Geologist Philippe Verdier first came to Monaco in July 1995 to develop Gramaglia Assurances, which specialises in corporate risk.
Over the past 25 years, Philippe has become a widely admired personality in Monaco for creating the popular fundraising event, No Finish Line. For each kilometre a participant runs or walks over the 8-day event, his non-profit association Children and Future donates one euro to support disadvantaged and sick children through various projects.
For 58-year-old Philippe (who shares his birthday on Halloween with his twin sister), benevolence has played a part of his life since junior high when for seven years he was a Sea Scout in Rouen. “Being a scout taught me to show solidarity and how to set up projects for groups of five or six friends.”
And although his family wasn’t particularly sporty, in school he did everything from ping-pong and handball to windsurfing and sailing, becoming an instructor in the latter in St Vaast la Hougue (Normandy). In fact, growing up Philippe dreamt of sailing and being a skipper of a boat from his hometown of Rouen in the Tour de France.
At the age of 30, he did his first marathon and finished with a time of 2:49. This would launch his passion for mythical ultras – UTMB (6th,), Marathon des Sables (15th), Badwater USA (4th), 100km Ventoux (1st) – completing around 60 with 80% podium finishes by scratch or category.
Combining the two elements of sport and solidarity, Philippe put on the first No Finish Line (NFL) in Monaco in 1999. His original idea was to have one person at all times on the 1-kilometre circuit over eight days. But in 2002, a bank sponsored the event for €20,000 and 18,000 km were completed, which lead to the concept of a sponsor donating one euro for every kilometre. This has been the formula since NFL 2004.
“The NFL concept is simple and can bring together all types of personalities – runners, walkers, athletes or not, children, elderly, pets – all for the soul purpose of helping sick or disadvantaged kids. Even those who are not athletic walk 400 km, with some taking a week off work or others hitting the circuit every night.”
Philippe says he is most pleased when he sees groups of friends or business associates coming together every day on the course, chatting while walking or running, while they help to change the world.
In the year of Covid, it would be impossible to maintain social distancing for the hundreds of participants on the 1.3-km circuit in Fontvieille. So the 21st edition from November 14 to 22 will be virtual. “The show must go on! For this first connected NFL Monaco, I would be happy with 4,000 registrants and 200,000 km. In post-containment Paris in June, we had 3,000 registrants who completed 123,000 km.”
It’s only €12 to participate and individuals can register online until noon on November 22 but teams need to do so before November 11. You’ll need to then download the ZAPSPORTS app and register for “No Finish Line Virtuelle” and start the stopwatch. All the kilometres you run or walk 24/7 from November 14 at 3 pm to November 22 at 3 pm will be automatically saved.
Super important to note also is the NFL Toy Drive at Fontvieille Big Top from Saturday, November 14, to Saturday, November 21. This is to collect as-new condition toys for the kids affected by Storm Alex (some of the NFL proceeds will also support this cause.)
Since 1999, NFL Monaco participants have covered a total distance of nearly four million kilometres (3,799,042) to raise more than four million euro (€4,018,092) for various charities, including the Cardio-Thoracic Centre Monaco, Aviation sans frontiers/African Rencontres, the Chaîne de l’espoir, Maison de vie Carpentras, and the Monaco Red Cross.
From the get go, Philippe has said he would love to see one NFL event for every week of the year. “I know 52 NFLs is hard to imagine but it’s what gets me out of bed every morning.”
In addition to Monaco, there are five 5-day NFL fundraisers in Europe –Paris (2015), Oslo (2016), Athens (2017), Nice (2018) and Bratislava (2019, where a connected edition takes place this week with at least €30,000 donated) – which have raised a combined total of €874,259. Philippe hopes that 2021 will see new NFLs outside of Europe.
Children & Future was founded by Philippe in 2001 to promote the protection of children’s rights around the world, and to finance projects that improve their condition, education, health and lifestyle. In addition to NFL, “NFL Danse,” a friendly dance competition in Monaco, was launched to also support the cause.
For Philippe Verdier, the dedication of his association and all the volunteers who all give so much during the week of No Finish Line is well rewarded. “One year, a child who was operated on and recovered only a few days earlier at the Cardio-Thoracic Centre Monaco, came to the NFL start line and was then carried by the winner of the 8-day total distance during his last lap. Every one of us was crying seeing the smile on his face.”
Alexandra Rinaldi, who owns Les 5 Saveurs à Monaco on rue Basse, is no stranger to the Monaco business scene. The Monegasque took over her parents’ business, Rinaldi Ship Chandler, which opened in 1970 on Quai Antoine, and before that, in 2010, she ran Les Trésors de la Mer, a clothing and decoration shop on rue de Millo in La Condamine.
Having sold both businesses, she had the opportunity to open a boutique in Monaco Ville that could cater to both Monaco residents and tourists. “The community on the Rock is elderly but we have people who know our history and share their stories in the streets.”
In March 2019, Alexandra opened Les 5 Saveurs à Monaco with her dog Bella at her side, selling scents of Provence, food and cosmetics. But things were a bit tight. “I ended up having to add some souvenirs to make ends meet. Tourists love anything that says Monaco,” she says.
The first year for any business is never easy, but then Covid hit. Streets typically filled with the bustle of tourists hoping to catch a glimpse of the Prince were at a standstill. Shops and restaurants, some having to pay out €6,000 a month in rent, faced extinction. As one elderly Monegasque women summed it up: “Monaco Ville est mort.”
“It was very difficult. I closed on March 14 but had the right to deliver food — tapenade, artichokes, olive oil, jams, herbs de Provence — which wasn’t a huge amount but it helped to pay the rent.”
Alexandra, who has lived most of her life between La Condamine and Fontvieille, reopened post-confinement on May 4. “I was so surprised to see clients from Monaco come that first week to support us. They didn’t spend large amounts but it helped. But by July and August, locals stayed away from le Rocher as tourists slowly came back. From August, it became mandatory to wear a mask in all les ruelles of Monaco Ville. “You didn’t have to wear masks in other parts of Monaco so locals stopped coming altogether.”
Once again, Alexandra reverted to small deliveries to loyal clients. Then the French confinement Version 2.0 began on October 30, 2020.
Cleverly, she had started to develop her business by selling Italian sweaters and vests—for €29 to €35—from a supplier she has worked with for 15 years. “I tried to find something that you can’t find elsewhere in Monaco so to not be in competition with other businesses here and although it’s not same turnover, it helps. I am going to expand with clothes and handbags that will appeal to passers-by and people from cruise ships.” (In 2019, there were 182,436 cruise passengers in Monaco. From March 11, 2020 until 2021 cruise ships were banned from stopovers in the Principality).
Alexandra is forthcoming. She admits she doesn’t have the means to buy items in advance and can only sell clothing because it is on consignment.
“As commerce, we are stuck. We can’t buy stock in advance that we don’t know if we are going to sell. This is a huge problem for businesses in Monaco but especially in Monaco Ville with souvenir shops.”
Alexandra has resorted to putting her boutique up for sale — “I am a relatively optimistic person in life but it has become a hard battle” — but is continuing with business as usual.
Her line of Panier des Sens — natural cosmetics and scents of Provence hand creams, soaps and fragrances all made in Marseilles — is her top seller, for both clients in Monaco and tourists. “The products I love sell well.” The Colline de Provence products also a hit.
There is a scent for every budget here. And for Christmas, Alexandra will make up gift boxes from €10 to €150.
Open Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm or anytime by appointment on 06 40 61 80 28.
If you ask Hugh Bearn whether an expat congregation is any different than a typical village parish, his response is straightforward. “I have been a priest for 35 years and it seems to me that people are the same the world over, driven by the same impulses and affected by the same concerns – the only difference is the wrapping.”
The Bearn family – Father Hugh with his wife Alison, youngest son Freddie, and, of course, their West Highland Terrier Cameron III – arrived in Monaco in April 2023. St. Paul’s Anglican Church Monte Carlo may seem like a world away from his former gig at St. Anne’s Tottington in Lancashire, UK, where he served “27 glorious years of dedication and energy” according to a tribute upon his departure, but Father Hugh seems to have adjusted to the sunny lifestyle here just fine. “With the kindness of others we have settled in very well thank you.”
Father Hugh spent 24 years as a volunteer hospice chaplain, which seems the antitheses of serving the wealthy and privileged Monaco community where it is sometimes difficult for people to remain grounded. From where he stands, there is no secret to making “a habit out of Joy” in this one life we each have. “The response that I would give as a priest is to quote Jesus’ two great commandments to love God and our neighbour as ourselves. There are so many ways in which to do that – I think that I would run out of words. St. Therese of Lisieux said, “That shall be my life, to scatter flowers, to miss no single opportunity of making some small sacrifice, here by a smiling look, there by a kindly word; always doing the smallest right and doing it all for love.”
The middle child of four siblings grew up in Oxford, where the family home was over the road from a monastery and from a young age sensed a calling to the priesthood. His vocation has taken him on a faithful journey beyond a hospice chaplain, to Army chaplain, Chaplain to the late Queen – and now King – and Chaplain at St. Paul’s Monte Carlo.
“I have had the privilege of serving the Church over many years and I have been blessed in meeting and sharing in the lives of so many people. I think that I might write a book with the title Tales from the Vestry. Two very early ones involved ministering to a lady in Christie Hospital in Manchester and another with the most-lovely family in Heaton in Bolton whose son committed suicide and whom I still hold very close to my heart. Truthfully, there are too many people that come to mind whom I have tried to serve and have, without realising it, have formed and molded my priesthood and to whom I owe an enormous debt.”
And then there are the four-legged creatures. “We have always had dogs in our family. Alison and I have had three West Highland Terriers in 34 years of marriage all with the same name – Cameron. Dogs are very intuitive as we say in Lancashire, very knowing. As for sensing our faith or helping to teach us about God and love, well that remains, I think, a divine mystery.”
In April, Father Hugh coordinated “Operation Pews & Paws,” donating some 60 x 8-metre church pew cushions to the SPA (Société Protectrice des Animaux) Monaco. “A couple from St. Paul’s kindly funded the replacement of all of the old furnishings in Church. I dislike waste and our throw away culture in the West, and was very happy to help. By the way, I have an additional cushion if anyone would like to collect it.”
WATCH VIDEO ABOVE IN FRENCH: Karine Manglou from SPA Monaco talks about “Operation Pews & Paws.” (By the way, the new SPA Monaco refuge in Peille was inaugurated by Prince Albert and Princess Charlene on September 18.)
At St. Paul’s Monte Carlo at 22 avenue de Grande-Bretagne, “The congregation is multinational, with a varied age, and the Sunday School continues to grow,” says Father Hugh. Regular Church of England services take place every Sunday, and during the week, with special events and concerts peppered into the calendar, like the upcoming Exeter College Oxford Alumni Choir on October 6 at 10:30am and 3pm pm and the Danish Boys Choir – Les Petits Chanteurs de Frederiskborg – on October 12 at 2pm, both of which are free entry. Then there’s the not-to-be missed Christmas celebrations in English, the nativity play, as well as the traditional Christmas Eve (7:30pm) and Christmas Day at 8.00 am and 1030 am services. (See info and dates below.)
The Chaplain in Monaco, who once described himself as “short of height but high of profile”, has an open vicarage door policy: he is ever available for a pot of tea and a chat. But plan to stay a while, for whatever you wish to discuss with the Father Hugh, a delightful detour of dialogue will ensue. And for the record, I’d be the first to buy his book.
Article first published September 24, 2024.
St. Paul’s Monte Carlo Church Calendar
Sunday September 22, 10:30am: Thanksgiving service and dedication of a stone memorial for 150th anniversary of the birth of Sir Winston Churchill.
Monday Sept. 30, 6pm: Centenary launch at Metropole Hotel.
Sunday October. 6, 10:30am & 3pm: Exeter College Oxford Alumni choir singing. Evensong at 3pm.
Saturday Oct. 12, 2pm: Danish Boys Choir – Les Petits Chanteurs de Frederiskborg – free entry.
Sunday Oct. 13, 10:30am: Lord Chartres Confirming Bishop.
Sunday Oct. 20: Harvest Festival to support St. Famille in Nice.
Friday Oct. 25, 7:30pm: Trafalgar Night social evening at the Vicarage.
Friday November 7:30pm: In the English Library Padre David Coulter former Chaplain General of the British army talk on the faith of Earl Haig.
Remembrance Sunday Nov. 11:, 10:30am: Remembrance Service followed by service at Churchill bust on avenue de Grande Bretagne, Evensong 6.00pm.
Saturday December 7: Handel’s Messiah full orchestra and choir.
Sunday Dec. 15: Nine Lessons and Carols.
Tuesday Dec. 24, 7:30pm: Christmas Eve service.
Wednesday Dec. 25, 10:30am: Christmas Day services.
“In Mauritius, people are kind, maybe too much so, and naïve,” Sylvia Sermenghi says on her native island nation in the Indian Ocean. “So I learned to be tough.”
Sylvia moved to Monaco in 1980 and admits that it was “not easy to make your mark”. In the reign of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace, “Monaco was a different scene but maybe the whole world was different then.”
At age 20, Sylvia worked at the hotel Loews Monte Carlo (the Fairmont Monte Carlo today). After the birth of her son, she decided to be a stay-at-home mom until he started school and it was during that period she worked in fashion, first as a model in Paris, and after on the business side. She set up her own company, Gloria Prod and organised event launches in Monaco – the Dresdner Bank inauguration with Prince Albert and the opening of Zelo’s nightclub (now Twiga) – and in France, like the fundraising Par Coeur Gala hosted by French NBA basketball player, Tony Parker.
In 2012, Sylvia created her fashion label, Legends Monaco. “Two years later we were in the Haute Couture Week calendar, putting on fashion shows twice a year in Paris alongside Dior, and Chanel.” Today the brand offers tailor-made clothes to a private clientele.
Yet for as long as she can remember, animals have played the biggest role in her life. One reason, she says, is because growing up on an island you are “very close to nature and its creatures”. As Sylvia describes, “I was a wild child, climbing trees to pick fruit and bringing home abandoned dogs on the way home from school. We had a farm behind our house with all kinds of animals.”
Another big factor though was her father. “His passion for animals became mine when he died at a very young age.” Over the years, Sylvia has channelled this passion into benevolence. “As an adult, my first dog was an abandoned Dachshund I brought back from Corsica. During the ferry crossing back to Nice, I was so worried he would be frightened that I slept – if you can call it that! – with him in the hold all night.”
For Sylvia, a dog, or a cat, is our friend, our guardian and also our children. “They can’t speak our language, but they know very well to speak to our heart. I have always thought that animals bring out the best in us, the part of our original deep nature which is made up of the good and not so good. For me, it is very simple: I can talk with them, and I can feel instantly when they have a problem. This, I think, is love.”
Sylvia, who volunteers with the not-for-profit Jeune J’Écoute Monaco to help with PR, says the Monaco community love their dogs and that the mentality has become more open towards adopting abandoned dogs.
She created Rokethon Monaco., an association calling for responsible animal ownership and to raise awareness about dog abandonment. Rokethon – the name stems from the Creole word roqué, rock, as the Patron Saint of the dogs is St Roch – is a walk/run that will take place for dogs and their humans on October 5th, 10am, at the Chapiteau de Fontvieille.
Registration (by donation) is at the entry and only one dog per person can sign up. Fifty percent of registrant donations will go to the Société Protectrice des Animaux (SPA) in Monaco and the other half to associations supporting animal causes.
“When I adopted my three dogs, Roquette, Sunshine and Tough, from Ukraine last year they came from bombs of the war and minus 40 degrees in winter to join my six adopted dogs, my horses and my goats. I decided I could do better, for all families, young and old, with their doggies on a leash. They can come run or walk but let’s all get together for the animal cause – adopt don’t shop!”
There will also be a “Village Rokethon” with entertainment for young and less young with pets, animal art, dog communicators, agility therapists, and a Brigitte Bardot fashion show with abandoned dogs to adopt.
“In France, the Assembly National reports 12 domestic animals are abandoned every hour. In my opinion, and what should be everyone’s opinion, this is way too much and this is why I’m hoping many people will come out to support this cause and, why not, adopt one of our little hearts looking for home and family.”
For more information about Rokethon, see the website or email Sylvia Sermenghi .
Article first published September 13, 2024. Feature photos: Lacey Da Costa.
Salon du livre de Monaco co-founders Raphaël Abenhaim and Yvette Cellario.
This year’s Monaco International Book Fair at the Grimaldi Forum brings together 140 authors from 12 countries across the globe. The 13th edition – which is free to the public – kicked off Saturday September 7 with opera, and acknowledgements from Yvette Cellario, a Monegasque who co-founded the event with businessman Raphaël Abenhaim.
The pair first launched the online bookshop, Librairie numérique de Monaco, back in 2011. Following its success, they decided to expand their literary activities and went on to create the Salon du livre de Monaco in 2012.
The objective was to promote all facets of literature. Yvette, who worked for twenty years in the Monaco Town Hall events department, published her first novel “Et Moi, Émois” in 2004. This was followed by an autobiography and several other titles.
Raphaël Abenhaim and the Librairie numérique de Monaco team are on hand this weekend to speak with book lovers about what the online bookshop has to offer.
Volunteer Heidi De Love gives the lowdown on the 10% discount promo on all books throughout September. WATCH VIDEO BELOW: ENGLISH
For the first time in Monaco, members of the Rencontres des Auteurs Francophones are taking part in the book weekend. Founded in 2020 by author Sandrine Mehrez Kukurudz, the New York-based platform is the world’s first French-language literary network set up to promote French-language culture. WATCH VIDEO ABOVE IN ENGLISH: SANDRINE AND RON KUKURUDZ.
One of the Rencontres entourage includes LA-based Dana Ziyashiva. WATCH VIDEO IN ENGLISH.
Another first-time participant is Swiss-based writer Laurence Berger, with a fictional thriller linked to Monaco published in both French and English. WATCH VIDEO BELOW IN ENGLISH WITH LAURENCE BERGER AND LAURENCE GENEVET.
The Monaco International Book Fair runs from 10am to 6pm Saturday, September 7, and Sunday, September 8.
Writers from the Rencontres des Auteurs Francophones.French author Lucien Nasarre.Lawyer by day, writer the rest of the time, Laurence Berger.Heidi De Love volunteering with the fantastic Librairie numérique de Monaco.Well-known personality Laurence Genevet with her first book.Dana Ziyashiva from LA.The 13th edition of the Monaco International Book Fair.
Article first published September 7, 2024.All photos and videos copyright Good News Monaco.
Carina Bruwer admits she has always been a dreamer and will break the mould whenever she has the chance. In her world, nothing is impossible. “Coming from a musical family, I wasn’t heavily involved in sports growing up because perfecting a musical instrument requires a huge commitment and investment, and I sacrificed a lot for it.”
And yet Carina’s dream was to swim across the bay she often visited as a kid in her native South Africa. It was considered impossible – 35 km of rough, shark infested waters. It wasn’t until she finished school that she began swimming seriously and decided to pursue this “crazy” childhood vision. “I was self-trained and spent almost five years building up my mileage and courage to attempt the crossing. My first attempt nearly ended in disaster due to hypothermia, but I eventually succeeded.”
At 44, Carina has been swimming almost every day for nearly 25 years, and estimates she’s covered close to 40,000 km of open water in her lifetime. “I continue to race competitively and take on extreme solo challenges to support various charities.”
As she explains it, “I love the meditative nature of distance swimming; it feels like I enter a different mental wavelength a few kilometres into a long swim. There’s an incredible sense of freedom – almost like flying.” It doesn’t hurt that she is gifted with a naturally efficient swim stroke, which is ideal for endurance distances, like the 21km “Triple Country” France–Monaco–Italy swim and crossing the English Channel.
Carina trained by swimming between 6 to 8 km daily. “It’s not natural to swim for hours on end. The body instinctively wants to get out of the water after a relatively short time, especially when it’s cold. You must be over-prepared to have enough strength to face the mental challenges that are an intrinsic part of endurance swimming. It requires incredible dedication, similar to mastering a musical instrument.”
On August 1, 2005 she swam from England to France in 15°C water temps in a time of 12h03. As the Capetonian describes, there are various mental techniques to help endure the discomfort: detaching from it, negotiating with the voice of fear that tells you to stop and turn back, reframing the challenge into smaller, more manageable chunks, and reminding yourself that you can always do “just one more thing” – one more stroke, another 100 meters, another feed, another kilometre. “If you repeat that process a few times, you might just find yourself on the other side.”
Nutrition also plays a part in endurance swimming. Staying hydrated and consuming the right balance of carbohydrates, proteins, and electrolytes is critical to prevent fatigue and maintain strength. “Your support team is your eyes and ears because, as a swimmer, you’re very isolated. When the going gets tough – which it inevitably does – your team often keeps you motivated and focused.”
For Carina, it’s often inspiration pushes her beyond her boundaries. “When you’re swimming for a purpose greater than yourself, a cause, it gives you that extra strength to keep going, even when every part of you wants to quit.”
When she started a family, the new mom stuck to swimming in the safety of a pool. “I felt it was selfish to dedicate so much time and take risks in such an extreme sport when I had a young child at home.” But the pull of the ocean was strong, and Carina started missing her time in the water. “I became more aware of how fortunate I was to have my gifts, skills, and a healthy family while recognizing the immense need and suffering around us.
“I decided to return to open water swimming, but only if I could use my passion and abilities to make a positive impact – even if it meant changing just one person’s life. That’s when I started Swim For Hope in 2012, shortly after my second daughter was born. The initiative began in support of a child cancer foundation, and since then, I’ve completed numerous swims for various charities, including Muzukidz, which provides intensive violin tuition to disadvantaged children, and Tribuo, which supported musicians and performers who lost their income during the Covid pandemic.”
The mom of three is now planning her most ambitious Swim For Hope to date. The details are still under wraps, but the swim is scheduled for next August or September and “will challenge me physically and mentally in ways I’ve never experienced before.” The next step is securing sponsorship, but Carina is excited about the far-reaching impact the challenge could have.
Endurance swimmer Carina Bruwer and Swimrun Monaco founder Matteo Testa with Princess Charlene at Water Safety Day in Monaco in 2023. Photo: Matteo Testa.
Carina met fellow South African Princess Charlene in 2023 at a Water Safety Day in Monaco organised by her Foundation. It was swim instructor Matteo Testa, founder of Swimrun Monaco and ActivExplorer, who made the introduction. Matteo was Carina’s boat support for her 2018 Italy to Monaco swim. “I am very impressed by Princess Charlene’s efforts and would love to become more involved. Swimming promotes physical health, builds confidence, and teaches children how to stay safe in and around water, which is crucial, especially in areas with easy access to bodies of water.”
With Matteo, Carina is co-hosting a “Beyond Boundaries: Empowering Open Water Swim Retreat” from September 13-16 in Noli, Italy, a 75-minute drive from Monaco.
The 4-day retreat is for anyone who want to experience the magic of open water swimming. “Participants can expect a lot of swimming – whether it’s 500m or 10km – and an opportunity to learn new skills, all while challenging themselves to go beyond their self-imposed limitations.”
In addition to open water swims and basic stroke analysis, the retreat will include inspirational workshops and one-on-one sessions focused on breaking down life barriers, plus gourmet meals, nature hikes, and down time in a beautiful setting. (See here for more info and rates, which include companion and a 1-day options.)
Carina, who is also an acclaimed musician, says swimming in the ocean is empowering and teaches us many valuable lessons. “It forces us to confront our fears and develop resilience. It teaches us to be patient and persistent, to trust our instincts, and to respect the natural world around us.
“It reminds us to accept the ebb and flow of life – sometimes we feel like we’re moving backward, sometimes we’re propelled forward, and other times we seem to be simply treading water. But as long as we keep moving, we make progress, and over time, we make a difference.”
Article first published September 3, 2024.Feature image of Carina Brewer by Carel Kuschke.
In 2008, Fenella Holt and her husband Ed, a well-known yacht photographer, moved to Antibes from Mallorca. “Ed’s job meant we needed to be where the boats were,” explains Fenella. “At that time there was an exodus from Mallorca due to increased berthing fees and my kids had just finished school, so it was a good time to make a move. The boats were moving here, so we did too.”
Fenella eventually started working as a sales assistant at Heidi’s English Bookshop in the old town when, three years later, owner Heidi Lee made the decision to close down after 25 years. “I was therefore made redundant,” explains Fenella. “I realised that there was an opportunity to fill the gap left behind, and I’d learnt enough during my time there to risk it. I reckoned that if I could find the right location, I could make a successful business, and that’s what happened!”
She took on the locale of the defunct Catholic bookshop, La Procure, at 13 rue Georges Clemenceau and it could not have been better placed. “Everyone goes up and down this street, no matter where they are headed.”
And so, on Valentine’s Day 2015, Fenella officially opened the new Antibes Books with Merde! author Stephen Clarke on hand for a book signing. At time Fenella commented, “I can’t imagine ever wanting to go back to London.”
Of course, there have been unexpected ups and unexpected downs over the years. “The low point of the decade was definitely Brexit; it was much worse than Covid. Covid was, in a weird way, a joy! To begin with, I had to close, like everyone else. Then, one evening a couple of weeks into lockdown, I read that stationery shops were allowed to open, so the next day, I got my accountant to change my business licence to include papeterie, I bought some pencil sharpeners, sellotape and Tipp-Ex online and in no time we were open again.
“The shop then became a hub for those on their short daily walks, with many popping in for a chat, a quick (illegal) coffee or sometimes a cry. I think we provided a haven for many lonely people during that time. I’m really glad about that. As for Brexit, don’t get me started. My blood pressure couldn’t take it.”
Fenella says she has hosted some wonderful authors for events at Antibes Books. “We laughed ourselves silly with Celia Imrie – twice. Stephen Clark was a hoot, and the late, lovely, (normally grumpy) Henning Mankell gave me the biggest bouquet of roses you ever saw on opening day.”
There have been visits and impromptu signings with Rick Stein (pictured), Rod Stewart, Hugh Grant, Sharon Stone –and Fenella’s favourite regular – Pete Townshend.
And now, most unfortunately, Fenella is suffering from a chronic health disorder and the time has come to sell the beloved shop. “I want Antibes Books to continue to thrive. I won’t divulge stuff about the business itself here, anyone interested can contact me directly. Suffice to say that it’s very healthy, I am earning an excellent living and that I am willing to train a new owner in every aspect of the business, if needed.
“Also we are just about to launch our new home delivery service. We trialled this during Covid and it was a hit, as I expect it will be again. Thanks to this new legislation, we can be truly competitive when compared to the big online stores.”
Fenella assures that the family, which includes Athos (pictured), her tiny Jack Russell puppy who grew and grew into a 28kg Bernese Mountain Dog – “He was meant to fit in my bicycle basket!” – will definitely stay in the country.
“France is our permanent home, but away from the Med and hopefully away from the mosquitos! I love to swim in lakes and rivers, as does Athos with me, so once I have time, we are going to take off in our camper van, tour the country and find our idyll.”
Fenella Holt is happy to speak with potential bookshop owners and can be reached on 04 93 61 96 47 or by email.
Outside of my immediate family, few deaths have impacted me like the news about Kate on Monday. It was not unexpected yet, still, my knees buckled and time seemed to stop, as if the world was trying to readjust to losing one of its biggest beating hearts.
As expats, few people can share your grief when a person in your native country dies. Friends here can empathise with loss, but it is rare they knew the person or can share stories to help you keep their memory alive. With Kate, we are all mourning and instead of being sad alone, we can be sad together.
Kate made each of us in the community feel like we mattered in this world. We felt special because the core of her being was special, this was her superpower. There is a shared sentiment in the role Kate played: “Kate was the first person I met in Monaco.” “Kate treated everyone the same way, no matter who we are.” “Kate had known my kids since they were babies and always asked how they were doing.” “Une bonne personne, toujours au service et un petit mot pour ses clients.” “Kate introduced me to other people when I didn’t know anyone.”
For me, I had lived in the region for many years before I met “the” Kate Powers. I had heard so much about this American who owned a Tex-Mex restaurant in the port and was not only a childhood friend of the Prince but her mom was close to Grace Kelly. Slightly intimidating? What I remember in meeting her for the first time, and this has always stuck with me, is that Kate was the opposite of what I expected from the jet-set bling-bling crowd of Monaco – instead of resting on her laurels, she was a down to earth, open and a warm human being who instinctively knew when to hug at the right time. Like all of us, she had her insecurities although she was unaware of her beauty. “How can I help?” the tireless champion of kindness would always offer.
Of course pre-restaurant days, there was Kate’s made-for-the-movies life, one that she had hoped to share in writing or a series of video chats. Sitting with her and Annette Anderson one day talking about how to get all Kate’s stories out there, I remember my mouth dropping when she gave me a teaser: “Roman Polanski had called to ask me on a date and my mom grabbed the phone and told him to ‘F-off’ before hanging up. We were living in Switzerland at the time and I snuck out to the party where he was with Jack Nicholson. They were drinking too much so I left but as it was snowing outside and someone had left their keys in a car, I decided to drive home. I hit a snow bank so I had to abandon the car and walk the rest of the way.”
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On Monday night, as the tears rolled down my cheeks and dampened my pillows as I tried to fall asleep, I realized that while I wish Kate had stuck around much, much longer than her 68 years, she accomplished in life what we all hope for when we leave this earth: she made a difference. She did not wait until her diagnosis to live the life she wanted. She did not have to learn about spiritual awareness or quickly check off a Bucket List. No, Kate Powers had been evolving every day of her life, and gently nudging us along her path of change for the better.
She did not need to change. The Monegasque could have easily sat back over the years and let Stars’n’Bars, the restaurant she co-founded with Didier Rubiolo nearly 30 years ago, ride on the coattails of the Prince Albert connection. Instead, she rolled up her sleeves to transform the family-friendly eatery as a leading example of what she called “ecolution” in the Principality. It was the first restaurant to have its own urban vegetable garden, and to stop the use of plastic straws and non-biodegradable throwaway coffee cups.
When Covid hit last year, Kate told me, “Lockdown helped us wake up to necessary ecological changes that were more important than economical ones. We need to keep taking steps forward and raise awareness about wellness, whether its ours or the planet’s.” Stars’n’Bars replaced serving industrial sodas (Coca-Cola and Sprite) with only Fizz Bio organic colas made in Bordeaux, which some customers did not appreciate and would even walk out. “I try to explain that we are focusing on sourcing locally. When I tell people not to expect the taste of Coke with our organic soda, at first they are unsure but now they love it.”
That was the Kate effect. She had her way of doing things but she opened the floor for dialogue to educate; and she listened to learn.
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The first time I spoke to Kate after learning she had cancer, about six months ago, she was, typically, positive. Much of my connection with Kate was over our shared appreciation of nature and often I would send her a message describing some random observation, a text that I could never send to anyone else (including my husband) because they would think I was crazy. She got it.
Here is what I mean. The day after I learned of her illness, I went for a long swim along Cap Roquebrune, specifically with the intent of putting healing energy into the sea for her. This is my form of meditation. I focused on Kate for the entire 5 kilometres and when I returned to shore, I discovered my safety buoy was no longer attached. That had never happened in my seven years of open water swimming. From my apartment, I could see the orange buoy out there floating on the open sea. I texted Kate to tell her the story and said “Whenever you come across anything orange, know that the universe is your safety buoy.”
Kate replied: “I was biking earlier, talking to the trees and asking for their assistance. I looked up to see orange. Orange is Didier’s favourite colour and he is wearing an orange shirt now! The universe is definitely on my side.”
Half a year later, out on my run yesterday morning, the sunrise across the sea, with the clouds, captivated me and I thought “I’ll share that with Kate.” I stopped in my tracks for a moment before telling myself, I can still share these moments with her, just not in the physical world.
I will honour Kate by trying to follow some of her examples – to continue to raise awareness about our planet’s health, to be kinder and more helpful to each other and, as Kate was no fan of the news and its negativity, share good and positive stories with others. Really, to be the best version of myself possible.
Our friend Kate Powers came into this world with wings; she did not have to earn them, only spread them to get back home. And, knowing Kate like we all do, she will certainly raise the bar for all the other angels.
The first ten days of motherhood for Johanna Damar Flores were not what she imagined. “While breastfeeding my 10-day-old son, I discovered a huge ball on his neck. I was alone and at home. At first, I was quite anxious. I didn’mut know what it was or who to contact.”
Thanks to Johanna’s network in Monaco, her son was quickly diagnosed and, after a year of reeducation, his neck completely healed. “During this unexpected experience, I realised that when we become parents – and not only for the first time – we all feel isolated and uninformed.”
WATCH VIDEO ABOVE: Anna Campbell and Clémence Perrin give the scoop on Entreparents and their Global Day of Parents huge all-day party at Larvotto.
With her mum friends Emilie Sabatié and Swiss-born Clémence Perrin, Johanna put out an online survey and the answers showed that new parents can struggle to find the information they need from one central source. “We were never meant to raise children alone,” says Emilie, who, like Johanna, was born in France and grew up in Monaco. “It takes a village, and when you don’t have the psychological and physical support of others life is more challenging.”
This was the start of the Entreparents network and their mission “to help at least one family,” says Johanna.
Entreparents cofounders Emilie Sabatié, Johanna Damar Anna Campbell and Clémence Perrin.
Brit Anna Campbell, who has lived in Monaco for 12 years, joined the French-speaking trio and Entreparents became an official Monaco association in May 2021. Their goal? To put parenthood back into the heart of the community. They have almost 2,000 authentic followers on Instagram.
“The whole journey is a new challenge, something you haven’t experienced before and is unique for everyone,” says Clémence. “You realise at each stage that things in your life will change – your body, your moods, thoughts, relationships – but you don’t know to what extent until you’re living it. And the not knowing is stressful, so the care and support of those who do know is invaluable.”
Emilie adds, “We really believe that Monaco is an exceptional environment and offers many great services to parents. With Entreparents, we always want to value the existing services – like the Espaces Parents at the mairie managed by Maryline Soldano and the ateliers of the CHPG Maternity – and connect parents to them.”
The association is not only for parents and future parents in Monaco and the surrounding area, but also for family members, childcare providers, professionals and institutions within the family-child environment. And it’s not just for mothers either. “Our aim to include dads and their role in raising a baby,” shares Johanna. “It’s same for them when it comes to isolation and lack of information, and having the opportunity to meet people at the same life stage.
Anna, a mum of three who has lived in Monaco for twelve years has limited French. “There are added difficulties if you’re an expat, don’t speak French and you’re potentially living in a new place without knowing many people or where to get the information you need, like finding a doctor or baby formula. When you don’t have family nearby you really rely on the community and support of others in your situation or others who can offer guidance, they become your family, your tribe, your village.”
Entreparents is the needle threading together Monaco’s community and services. Johanna describes, “In collaboration with Radio Monaco, we have launched their first on-air series dedicated to parenting called Come, Let’s Chat. Once a month on the Feel Good Morning Show with Giulia Testaverde, you will find our experts and parents of our network chatting about all things parenthood. We also have an agreement with the CHPG Maternity Department to be part of their multi-disciplinary team working together to develop the available services.”
It was Anna who had the idea of a free and easy-to-use app, as she knew someone who started a similar concept in the UK. “Facebook groups are very useful but can be difficult to find the information you’re looking for scrolling through previous questions and answers,” Anna explains. “The app has instant chat and dedicated group chats to help find information more easily. Our aim is to help make the pathway into parenthood more supported and serene.”
Anna Campbell, Johanna Damar and Clémence Perrin at the Maison des Associations.
The Entreparents app in English and French was launched in fall 2023 and has more than 880 users, mostly French-speaking parents in Monaco. Johanna, Anna, Clémence and Emilie are hoping more English-speaking mums and dads will download it.
The app is a super resourceful tool with a 24/7 chat feature. Users’ questions range from helping babies sleep and toddler behaviour to doctor contact information and where to buy certain products. The dedicated chat groups deal with topics including post-partum, childcare, nutrition and infertility. The chat is mediated by Agnès Guénin, a psychomotor therapist specialising in perinatal care and parenting support.
There’s also an information feature to guide new and future parents each step of the way with helpful general information and hospital appointment reminders, from pre-pregnancy through the child’s first three years.
The app’s calendar informs parents of local events for families to enjoy together. “Our most recent event was Let’s Meet Infertility: an invisible pain,” says Anna. “It was a big gathering of local experts with mums sharing their infertility journey. It helped to show the network that is available to anyone struggling and to create a conversation and support in the community.”
Their next event is Global Day of Parents on Saturday June 1, at Neptune Monaco Beach (reservations a must by email). The family-friend celebration starts with breakfast from 9:30 am. There will be a kids’ corner, activities, a bouncy castle (till 11:30 am offered by My Sweet Birthday) and mini massage sessions for little ones in partnership with the Maman Bulle, and a massage area for parents.
With the help of Kids & Co Monaco, the beach restaurant will become dedicated to families, equipped with changing table, high-chairs, stroller parking, placemat colouring, children’s menu, and a festive lunch (paid per family), bubble machines and a baby-friendly photo booth. A DJ will play until 5 pm. The event will also launch “The Monaco Parenthood Support Committee” to give parents of the local community “an opportunity to have their voices heard”.
This will be the last in-person event before summer but the Entreparents team is already working on “Let’s Meet Halloween”. “This is our next biggest meet up with approximately 900 people usually joining us for trick or treat fun at Larvotto,” says Clémence.
As mums and wives in their late thirties and early forties, Johanna, Anna, Clémence and Emilie say their involvement depends first and foremost on availability outside family and work commitments. “We trust and respect each other enormously, and completely understand the daily challenges we each face as mothers and women,” says Anna. “We are carrying out this project together by sharing the same values and, above all, sharing the love for our children which is our real motivation.”
As Johanna puts it, “We’ve started a long-term movement to lay the foundations in our community for the years ahead, and for children like my daughter.”
Bon App!
The Entreparents app has financial support from Monaco Telecom, the Monaco government and the Monaco-registered Cuomo Foundation, which was set up in 2001 by Alfredo and Maria Elena Cuomo.
The Italian couple had one simple vision: to help vulnerable children in India with access to education and a chance at a better life. Other initiatives expanded in Europe and gradually to other regions of the world. After Alfredo’s passing in 2009, Maria challenged herself and the Foundation to evolve and broaden its goals, achievements and partnerships. Today, the Foundation remains active globally in the fields of education, social assistance, environmental research and culture.
Article first published May 30, 2024. Video and feature photo copyright Good News Monaco.
